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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 7:11:46 GMT -5
UVmapping Pants in Hexagon 2.5 In this tutorial I'll show you different ways to UV map your pants. There's a great Unfold tool in Hexagon we'll use to make our UV map/template. A general tip for mapping any clothes is to take a look at real life garments and put your seams in the same location(s). Any article of clothing is really several pieces of flat material sewn together so your map should resemble/reflect this. And this is where the process of unfolding comes into play. "Unfolding" is like unwrapping; putting seams in your 3D object to "cut" it apart; turning it into 2D map so you can texture it. Alrighty....let's get to it! My Pants. In UV & Paint click on the Unfold (head icon). You should now see a split screen with your pants on the left and a grid on the right. You'll know which window you're currently working in because it will be highlighted in white. Select your Edge Tool(F3) or use Auto Select(F5) I want my pants to have four parts. ( Front Left, Front Right, Back Left, and Back Right). The first thing I wish to do is create an inseam in the legs. To do so, I highlight an edge on the inside of the pants and then loop it. Next, I highlight a top and bottom edge in the FRONT middle of my pants and then click on BETW. RESULTS:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 7:38:41 GMT -5
Next, I click on the (+) sign in my Properties. Your selections will turn from light blue to dark blue. This lets you know it's been added. FYI if you ever select a wrong edge, simply click on the (-) and the edge will be deselected. Ok, now I wish to add two seams on the outsides of the legs. I go into my Left View and click on an edge then loop it. Symmetry is on but it won't work with UVmapping. You'll have to manually select the other edge. I now turn to Right View (the edge is highlighted in dark blue showing me that's the symmetrical one to the one I just highlighted. I click on an edge and loop it. Next, I turn to my Rear View and select an edge on the top and bottom of my "b-crack" then click on BETW. *You'll know where to place the new edges by looking at where the front loop ( in dark blue) stops. Click on the (+) sign again. Immediately after that, Click on the head that appears BEFORE it to unfold. You should now see what's below:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 7:54:59 GMT -5
You'll now want to use the dropdown menu for both the Proj Axis and Pinning A to orient your Pants. After playing with both, I get this look: I now wish to re-arrange my pants so I click on VALIDATE and my Universal Manipulator appears. Click in your UV view. It should now be highlighted in white. Next, I go into Face Mode(f2) or you can use Auto Select Mode(f5) I then Right Click and Drag over the first part. Be very careful not to capture points from the other parts. You can right click and drag and then hold down the Shift Key to go back for points you missed. You should now be able to pull the first part away from the rest. Notice the highlighted faces in the UV shows which part of the pants you're affecting in your other view. (BTW this is what a right click and drag looks like---highlighted in red.) Below shows what happens with left behind point(s). Go back to your grid and separate the others. While each is highlighted, use your Universal Manipulator to rotate or scale your pants(with the yellow box) so they're bigger OR scale them down so they're smaller and can all fit onto the grid. You might want to use the Relax function (located right above the grid) for the parts of the pants which might look very dense. It acts in the same manner as the Soften Brush---spacing the polys a bit. I find the Relax to be a hit or miss.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 8:17:10 GMT -5
Now that we have our pants the way we want it, let's Save the template. Click on the Camera icon and name your template. Go back to your other view( Perspective or Orthographic) and click in it. It should be highlighted in white. At the bottom, click on Single View. Now Export your pants by clicking on File---->Export Wavefont obj. Make sure, "Export UVs" is CHECKED. Note: If you messed up at any point during this process, just press ABORT. The Template:The End. ;D
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 8:27:01 GMT -5
PINNING and Mapping using Shading Domains coming soon...
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 9:23:34 GMT -5
Another way to map your pants. This time I want two halves (Front Right/Back Right AND Front Left/Back Left)Once again, I go into the middle of my pants (more towards the back) and select an edge then loop it. Next, I turn to the front and select a top and bottom edge then click on BETW. Finally, I turn to the back and select a top and bottom edge then click on BETW. Template:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 9:43:15 GMT -5
Yet another way to map your pants. I, of course, looped the inner leg(s). Next, I selected an edge at the top and bottom of the front, then clicked on BETW, BUT I suggest you do this in the BACK(only), as while seams are necessary, the less you see of them, the better---texturing wise. Template:
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Post by roxannej on Jul 30, 2010 11:45:31 GMT -5
I'll add a couple of points....... 1. You MUST export your model to an OBJ file once you complete the mapping process so that the UV map is embedded into the object. Don't forget this step or the map will not be applied to the object. 2. Map early - there's no reason not to map your object in the early stages once you have the basic shape and before you smooth a lot. Even if you add polygons in the smoothing process, if the shape remains the same, it's easier to map less polygons. 3. Map according to how you want to texture. As SSAfam1 wrote, there are numerous ways to map the same object, and you should prepare your map according to how you want/need to texture it. For instance, this map will be easy to use if you want to put a seam down the side of the pants - like with a pair of jeans: 4. Remember to open the object in UV mapper and save a new template. You are checking your object for the stored UV map this way, and you can create a larger, and easier to use template for your 2D texturing program. 5. If you have several parts to an object, simply hide those parts you want to map separately, remembering to save each map and export the object. 6. If you are not using the projection tool, line up the map so that patterns match at the seams. For those of us to had to take sewing in school (yeah, I'm old) you'll remember the "sermon" about matching patterns. You have to do the same in your UV map if you plan to use a patterned texture or everywhere there is a seam the pattern will not match up. Line up the important parts (like the inseam of pants) in all the pieces using the grid to ensure you have placed them well. (see the attached image below) 7. Using the projection editor - you may also want to use the projection editor for pattern matching if you are using an intricate pattern. (I have to leave to run errands, but I'll do a tutorial on the projection editor later.) Attachments:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 11:59:19 GMT -5
Good stuff! Looking forward to that Projection tutorial
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 12:33:13 GMT -5
Rox (when u have the time) can you do a "From Hex to UVmapper" tutorial?
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Post by roxannej on Jul 30, 2010 12:51:05 GMT -5
Rox (when u have the time) can you do a "From Hex to UVmapper" tutorial? I'll put it on my list........but it's simple. 1. Open UV Mapper. 2. File>Load Object and select your object. 3. You'll see the UV Map you created in Hexagon on the screen. (If you don't, you forgot to export the OBJ after you mapped. Go back and do that.) 4. File>Save Template, choose the template size (I use 1024 x 1024 most of the time unless it's a really intricate object, then 2048 x 2048), save it to your :Runtime:textures:<Your Directory Name> and exit UV Mapper. 5. You're finished with mapping and ready to texture that template you just saved.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 30, 2010 13:19:21 GMT -5
PINNING -Pin down sections to keep them in place and it'll also unwrap nicely. I selected the UVmapping method I wanted(inseam and back). Added the selections(+), then clicked on the head. Note-I have one level of smoothing and my dynamic geometry isn't collapsed. It unfolded like this: Again, played with the projs. Switch to POINT ModeUse the dropdown and select pin. Go to the middle of your pants and put a pin in the centerline---one vertice away from the edge of the top and bottom(crotch). RESULTS:I collapsed the geometry and it updated the polys in my pants. DG is now empty I then clicked on VALIDATE and the Universal Manipulator appears. I went into Face Mode(f2) and drew a selection over my entire pants. I then moved it up towards the middle of the grid and scaled(using yellow square) it in a bit so it fit perfectly within my grid. The End. ;D
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 6:53:01 GMT -5
Pinning can be really tricky, sometimes it improves the map, sometimes it makes it worse. When you are using pins, watch the map on the right of your screen - the map will change as you add each pin. I've also found you should always "match" pins - if you pin one side, pin the other or the map is distorted on the unpinned side. Also, pins seem to work better if you put them 1 in - skip 1 point on the object from the seam and select the next one for your pin. If your pins don't work out, just select the pin on the object and hit the - (minus) key in the menu just below the drop down menu. That will remove the pin. (The same goes for seams, BTW. If you want to change a seam, just select it and click the minus icon.) Attachments:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 7:07:18 GMT -5
I've also found you should always "match" pins - if you pin one side, pin the other or the map is distorted on the unpinned side. You mean if you pin the front, pin the back? When I do that, I get a messed up (circular) map. I would select my two front pins and then click on (+). It immediately straightens it up. Then I'd go to the back and add two there and it totally messed it up.
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 7:22:30 GMT -5
I've also found you should always "match" pins - if you pin one side, pin the other or the map is distorted on the unpinned side. You mean if you pin the front, pin the back? When I do that, I get a messed up (circular) map. I would select my two front pins and then click on (+). It immediately straightens it up. Then I'd go to the back and add two there and it totally messed it up. Yes, that's what I mean.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 9:20:21 GMT -5
Just the unfold(inseam and back) Two pins placed in front---BEFORE clicking on the (+) Still only two pins in the front but AFTER clicking on the (+) Now two pins placed in the front. Two placed in the back and then clicked on the (+). Results: I've also tried it with two pins in the front then clicking on the (+) Unfolds nicely. Next, go to the back, put two pins there, and then click on the (+). Now it's a messy map.
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 10:16:16 GMT -5
Just the unfold(inseam and back) Two pins placed in front---BEFORE clicking on the (+) Still only two pins in the front but AFTER clicking on the (+) Now two pins placed in the front. Two placed in the back and then clicked on the (+). Results: I've also tried it with two pins in the front then clicking on the (+) Unfolds nicely. Next, go to the back, put two pins there, and then click on the (+). Now it's a messy map. That's because you are not pinning EVENLY. One on each side of the seam on EACH piece. Like THIS: Attachments:
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 10:31:39 GMT -5
Once again told the wrong info. I wonder if it depends on what type of mapping you do? Or is it just a standard rule? Does this apply for all types of clothing too, Rox?
I only ask because the person who introduced me to pinning wrote me this email:
"SSAfam1, I saw in your thread about FBMs you had used UV mapping in hex. With vertices selected if you put a pin in the centerline one vertice away from the edge on the top and bottom, it'll unwrap nice that way and IIRC it might also keep it from twisting like it did in your image. I'll leave a little example. The p is where you'd put the pin on your mesh
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I believe the article of clothing was a shirt that he saw(if that matters).
Does it matter that your proj Axis is X(side to side) so your pinning is side to side? Like would it still be a side to side pinning if your Axis was Y?
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 11:10:01 GMT -5
Once again told the wrong info. I wonder if it depends on what type of mapping you do? Or is it just a standard rule? Does this apply for all types of clothing too, Rox? I only ask because the person who introduced me to pinning wrote me this email: "SSAfam1, I saw in your thread about FBMs you had used UV mapping in hex. With vertices selected if you put a pin in the centerline one vertice away from the edge on the top and bottom, it'll unwrap nice that way and IIRC it might also keep it from twisting like it did in your image. I'll leave a little example. The p is where you'd put the pin on your mesh
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I believe the article of clothing was a shirt that he saw(if that matters). Does it matter that your proj Axis is X(side to side) so your pinning is side to side? Like would it still be a side to side pinning if your Axis was Y? It typically will apply. I'm working from my knowledge of sewing. And, what we're doing with UV mapping is creating the pattern for the clothing item we created. We just do it backwards - we make the clothing first, then create the pattern to apply to the material. So, if I pin a pattern on cloth and I pin it unevenly, the cloth is going to cut improperly. If I pinned the center front seam, and did NOT pin the center back seam, the fabric will never line up when I try to sew it together. Now, if you're UVmapping a dragon, I doubt this would apply, but with clothing it most certainly will in every instance. I don't really know about dragons, cars, etc. just clothing - I've never tried to make and map anything else.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 11:21:18 GMT -5
Once again told the wrong info. I wonder if it depends on what type of mapping you do? Or is it just a standard rule? Does this apply for all types of clothing too, Rox? I only ask because the person who introduced me to pinning wrote me this email: "SSAfam1, I saw in your thread about FBMs you had used UV mapping in hex. With vertices selected if you put a pin in the centerline one vertice away from the edge on the top and bottom, it'll unwrap nice that way and IIRC it might also keep it from twisting like it did in your image. I'll leave a little example. The p is where you'd put the pin on your mesh
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I believe the article of clothing was a shirt that he saw(if that matters). Does it matter that your proj Axis is X(side to side) so your pinning is side to side? Like would it still be a side to side pinning if your Axis was Y? It typically will apply. I'm working from my knowledge of sewing. And, what we're doing with UV mapping is creating the pattern for the clothing item we created. We just do it backwards - we make the clothing first, then create the pattern to apply to the material. So, if I pin a pattern on cloth and I pin it unevenly, the cloth is going to cut improperly. If I pinned the center front seam, and did NOT pin the center back seam, the fabric will never line up when I try to sew it together. Now, if you're UVmapping a dragon, I doubt this would apply, but with clothing it most certainly will in every instance. I don't really know about dragons, cars, etc. just clothing - I've never tried to make and map anything else. LOL @ the dragons. We're women...we like clothes and other girlie things! Makes perfect sense now that you broke it down like that. Sometimes I'll follow what someone says because they say that's the way it's to be done, but you never really understand WHY it's to be like that....just that it's "the way".
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 12:00:33 GMT -5
It typically will apply. I'm working from my knowledge of sewing. And, what we're doing with UV mapping is creating the pattern for the clothing item we created. We just do it backwards - we make the clothing first, then create the pattern to apply to the material. So, if I pin a pattern on cloth and I pin it unevenly, the cloth is going to cut improperly. If I pinned the center front seam, and did NOT pin the center back seam, the fabric will never line up when I try to sew it together. Now, if you're UVmapping a dragon, I doubt this would apply, but with clothing it most certainly will in every instance. I don't really know about dragons, cars, etc. just clothing - I've never tried to make and map anything else. LOL @ the dragons. We're women...we like clothes and other girlie things! Makes perfect sense now that you broke it down like that. Sometimes I'll follow what someone says because they say that's the way it's to be done, but you never really understand WHY it's to be like that....just that it's "the way". LOL, clothes I can do. Now, braids.........well, that's a completely different story! Grrrr, I think I hate braids.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 12:37:35 GMT -5
Rox when you said to line up the points, where do we do that and how? You stated to do that with the map above (split into two halves).
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Post by roxannej on Jul 31, 2010 13:56:39 GMT -5
Rox when you said to line up the points, where do we do that and how? You stated to do that with the map above (split into two halves). You have only one point at which you can add the points - during mapping. Just like you add seams, you add points to your UV map. You have to place each point individually.
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Post by SSAfam1 on Jul 31, 2010 14:49:59 GMT -5
Rox when you said to line up the points, where do we do that and how? You stated to do that with the map above (split into two halves). You have only one point at which you can add the points - during mapping. Just like you add seams, you add points to your UV map. You have to place each point individually.
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